News

UK Road Trip Report: Go Gardening at Cabbage Head July 28 2017

Here's a trip report of my last 8 weeks in the UK, climbing at Fairhead, Peak District Gritstone, North Wales classics and Cornwall.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0325/2569/files/Go_Gardening_at_Cabbage_Head.pdf?4935734476216711204


Finding Community At The Chosspiles of Europe July 06 2017

Here's an article on my European trip so far with some observations on climbing at Kalymnos and France.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0325/2569/files/FINDING_COMMUNITY_AT_THE_CHOSSPILES_OF_EUROPE.pdf?1413268023946677284


My Ultimate Trad First Ascent: The RJ McMahon Memorial January 16 2017

See link below for article and topo of a new route I completed at Africa on Ben Lomond yesterday, called the R.J McMahon Memorial Route (24), probably the best new trad route I've ever established and named in honor of my old mate Bob McMahon. 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0325/2569/files/THE_RJ_MCMAHON_MEMORIAL.pdf?2194688436404733197


My First Time In The Blueys: by Jemimah Narkowicz January 16 2017

Here's an article by my daughter describing her first trip to the Blue Mountains last year. This is her first ever climbing article.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0325/2569/files/My_First_Time_In_The_Bluets.pdf?12934990207422919499

 


Northern Tassie New Route Update - excellent new sport crag December 07 2016

Here are 2 links to a heap of new routes done in Northern Tassie in 2016. The first is an update to all the new routes done in the Fingal Valley in 2016. Of significance is the new sport crag at North Sister, an easily accessed cliff with a dozen excellent bolted climbs with an awesome ocean view. It also includes routes at  South Sister, Township Creek and the new cliff at Gilligans Creek.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0325/2569/files/Fingal_Valley_Update.pdf?16993781837007878344

The second is an update to 31 new climbs in the South Esk river..you know..the one we said was climbed out 30 years ago? With fresh eyes and a few bolts, some very worthwhile climbs have been added and are worth you seeking out.

 https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0325/2569/files/South_Esk_update_combined.pdf?8652390278818501759

 


New Worthless Donkey Dick Climbs September 11 2016

I did 3 new routes last weekend at the Willow Jungle Crag in the South Esk. Just thought I'd devalue the crag and bolt some more worthless pox. Named after One Day Hero, the Donkey lover. Includes such classics as Damo Does Donkeys (24), Damo the Donkey Dick Licker (20) and the classic corner One Day Hero Sucks Donkey Dicks (21).

 

.

Isaac Lethborg on the 2nd ascent of `One Day Hero Sucks Donkey Dicks' (21)

 


TOWARDS 1000 NEW CLIMBS: MY CLIMBING LIFE SO FAR September 03 2016

I just compiled a list of all the first ascents I've been involved with in the last 36 years. It inspired me to write this article. Hope you like it. Cheers

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0325/2569/files/new_route_blog_article.pdf?9962689392711742720


Fingal Bare Rock Guide Update May 01 2016

Here is a complete guide to the 28 new climbs added to Bare Rock since the guidebook came out in 2013. A comprehensive guide to the cliff up to 2013 is found in Climb Tasmania. It has become a major sport climbing destination with 91 pitches of new bolted climbing added to the cliff since 2010. Visitors are asked to ring or text the landowner, Andrew Martin, before every visit on 0418 883 418. People are also asked to drive very slowly on the access road to minimize damage, as this road is paid for by private property owners.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0325/2569/files/Fingal_Update_2016.pdf?305154819746534882


Salathe Wall El Cap Video February 23 2016

Check out this rough video recording of our ascent of El Cap via the Salathe..20 minutes long..thanks to John Fischer for the edit. We hauled to Heart Ledge on the first day at about 250m, rapped the second day then climbed Free Blast back to heart Ledge, slept the night and fixed to Lung Ledge (one pitch), then realized we didn't have enough water; rapped to the ground and a rest for a few hours, fetched water then jumared back up to Lung ledge, then it was 3 more nights and four days climbing to the top..a slow effort..some 20 hour days..but we made it nonetheless. Hardest thing physically and mentally I've ever done..we didn't free climb anything harder than about grade 22..it was 30 degrees, exhausted from hauling, dehydrated etc. Only a couple of pitches up to that grade level (22) would rate 3 stars if they were one pitch climbs.. The best quality pitches are grade 27+, and the headwall (31) is the greatest crack pitch I've ever seen (took us 5 hours to aid). In hindsight, the way to go would be light and as free as possible..like a 24 hour push with a few hours rest if needed, just a few snacks and a few litres water, and just yard on the gear when its too hard. Id never do a big wall again,,a grueling epic, but some of the best positions in climbing I've ever been.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3G48iXfgGiU


Africa Guide Update January 13 2016

Here is an update to six superb routes done at Africa on the western escarpment of Ben Lomond recently. I spent 21 days camped there in the last 2 months and together with Andrew Martin, Nick Hancock, Squib and Simon Bischoff, some of the best routes in the history of the crag were established.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0325/2569/files/Africa_Guide_Update_2016.pdf?17660931764269140530